Uplifting Spirit of Hydrangeas
Friday, June 30, 2023The Japanese rainy season or tsuyu is still ongoing but almost ending in Japan. But instead of cloudy or grey-filled skies, we could see blu...
Friday, June 30, 2023
The Japanese rainy season or tsuyu is still ongoing but almost ending in Japan. But instead of cloudy or grey-filled skies, we could see blue, purple, and other colored hues blossoming everywhere. These are ajisai in Japanese which are called hydrangeas in the West.
I have never seen these flowers in the Philippines or in other countries I visited before. When I came to Japan, my then-boyfriend and now-husband introduced them to me on our second date. I was instantly captivated and they became my favorite flowers in Japan from then on.
There are some interesting facts about hydrangeas that I didn't really know about until I started my research. Since I really wanted to know more about this flower, I decided to write about it and share its beauty with others.
The name ajisai was derived from the Japanese word 集真藍 (azusai) which means 藍（青）色が集まる (ao iro ga atsumaru). In English, this means "the gathering of blue." Isn't it a beautiful name? This flower welcomes the rain during a season that can make people depressed or sad. But the sight of these species on a gloomy day could uplift one's mood and spirit. Surprisingly, that's what it does to me.
Interestingly, hydrangeas originated from Japan and China and were mentioned in Japanese literature from the ancient Nara period (from 710 to 794). They usually became the subject of haiku. In the 12th century (~1001), when Japan opened and implemented its open-door policy, hydrangeas were made known to many Western countries. It was then reproduced in the West where it was named hydrangea.
Ajisai has very interesting characteristics because they change color depending on the type of soil and the amount of time that has passed since it bloomed. Hydrangeas contain a natural pigment called anthocyanin. When the plant absorbs a lot of aluminum from the soil, the hydrangeas turn bluer. Acidic soil makes the aluminum dissolve quickly and becomes easily absorbed by the plant. Blue and purple hydrangeas are common in Japan because the soil is highly acidic. In the West, many hydrangeas are pink and red-purple due to the alkaline soil. At first, the colors of the flowers are cream and then they turn into darker colors such as blue, purple, red, or pink, depending on the nature of the soil, as time passes.
The colors of hydrangea also carry different meanings. Blue and purple are the standard colors that you can see everywhere. Because they portray a cold and cool vibe, they convey the meaning of beautiful but cold, arrogant, and heartless. Despite these negative meanings, words like mysterious, intelligent, and serene were also related to it due to the dignified appearance that they portray in the rain.
As for pink and red hydrangeas which are mostly seen in Europe, they are bursting with the words energetic and strong love. The term "Energetic Female" was given by the French. Pink hydrangeas carry the meaning of love. They are also a perfect present for a loved one on a special occasion.
White hydrangeas signify devoted love, unwavering affection, generosity and purity which makes them a good symbol of marriage. Unlike the others, their colors never change despite the nature of the soil because these species do not contain the anthocyanin pigment. Their flowers are pure white. Flowers that suddenly change color to blue, purple, or red are not pure white hydrangea species. When they age and decompose, they naturally turn green.
I had a wedding bouquet filled with white hydrangeas for my two weddings in Japan and in the Philippines. Actually, I didn`t expect that it would be available in a tropical country. Luckily, my florist and event stylist was able to order it from a cooler place, Baguio in northern Luzon, through the famous flower shop in Dangwa.
Aside from colors, there are various types of hydrangeas in Japan. The most common native species of hydrangeas in Japan is the gaku-ajisai (額紫陽花 / ガクアジサイ). This species symbolizes modesty because of its small center and few flowers.
This was also the type of ajisai that my husband and I took photos of during our date. We were both fascinated by its shape and color that day. Afterward, I posted my photo as a story on my Instagram, and on the same night, he posted a picture on his account Instagram account too. It's a beautiful coincidence, isn't it? That's why this flower is very significant to us.
Another type of ajisai is the yama-ajisai (山紫陽花 / ヤマアジサイ). They were named as such because they normally grow in the mountains. They actually don't look like hydrangeas because their tiny flowers are not in a cluster. Due to their shy and delicate appearance, they are also known as "Maiden's Love" or "Earnest Love." My husband even said they were not original hydrangeas. LOL. So harsh.
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The Japanese Hydrangea which was brought to the West, now known as the Western Hydrangea, is called temari temari (てまりてまり). With its cute round petals and small flowers growing and forming a ball shape, it became a symbol of a family's close relationship filled with peace and harmony. They also say that if you find a hydrangea with heart-shaped flowers, you will find true love.
As of today, I have only been to four spots with hydrangeas. I inserted their website links here for easy access and more information.
2020
Mimuroto-ji
https://www.mimurotoji.com/
As I have mentioned earlier, my first day date with my husband was in a hydrangea garden in Mimuroto-ji, Uji, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture. It is very huge and filled with different types of hydrangea species. It is well-maintained and there are temples and shrines inside too. The entrance fee is 500 yen. The place could get pretty crowded during peak season though. But it is still a must-see if you come to Kyoto.
2021
Tanshu Kannon-ji Temple
https://www.tanba-ajisaidera.com/
This second temple that I've been to is also known as the Hydrangea Temple. It is located in Isa, Fukuchiyama City, Kyoto Prefecture. We used to live in an apartment in Isa so we were able to take a 15-minute walk to the temple. At first, I only took pictures of the beautiful hydrangeas outside. But when I came back, I found out that there were more hydrangea species that I'd never seen before inside the temple grounds. The entrance fee is 300 yen.
2023
Horyu-ji Toko-in Temple
https://www.tambatokoin.com/
This was the third temple with hydrangeas that I've visited. The path towards the temple was lined up with hydrangeas. However, they were not growing as well as we'd hoped. I observed that many of the flowers are located on lower grounds with metal-wired fences for safety precautions. But there were also some hydrangeas leading to the temple.
If you want to go inside the temple grounds, you need to pay the entrance fee of about 300 yen. There are 1,000 wind chimes and 1,400 pinwheels and you can enjoy the chimes when the wind comes. It gives off a summery feel. I actually didn't go inside the temple grounds because my husband didn't want to. I will probably go with our kid in the future when we have another chance.
Maizuru Nature and Cultural Park
https://www.kyotobythesea.com/placesnature
The fourth hydrangea garden that I saw was the Maizuru Nature and Cultural Park which was the best one I've seen in northern Kyoto so far. Why? It is overlooking the sea! There are no temples or shrines too. Just a pure hydrangea garden to take in and feel the cool breeze.
The entrance fee was 500 yen, a little higher than the other parks I've been to in northern Kyoto. It is the same price as Mimuroto-ji. But it is well-maintained and easy to navigate the whole garden. Pets are also allowed and there is a huge field before the hydrangea garden so people could enjoy having a picnic and dog runs.
My goal every year is to see hydrangeas in different places in Japan. In 2022, we weren`t able to visit any because my husband and I flew to the Philippines for our wedding. Hydrangeas filled our special day so it was just fine!
If you have any highly recommended places to see hydrangeas in Japan, please let me know in the comments section. I hope this flower brings you comfort during the rainy season. It's almost ending. Let's hang in there!
"It must be because of the rain. The rain blinds me. While the rain blurs their outlines the hydrangeas blossom. The green leaves spread their wings in the rain. That`s why rainy days are fun. You can see things you can`t see when it`s sunny, and hear sounds you can`t hear."
-Natsu Miyashita, author of Sunny Days, Rainy Days
Sources*
https://we-xpats.com/en/guide/as/jp/detail/11651/
https://onigiro.com/blog/japanese-hydrangea/
